Nestled in an alpine river valley, the Darwin Ranch has been welcoming wilderness enthusiasts since 1965, when Loring Woodman began renovating the old log cabins at the Gros Ventre River crossing.  This is the point in a once settled valley where the original pioneer wagon track started its long descent into Jackson Hole.  The trail and most of the old homesteads are long since gone, but the Darwin Ranch remains.  We are 22 miles inside the Bridger-Teton National Forest, at the end of a long gravel road, and are lucky to have this last, isolated section of the Gros Ventre River valley — officially designated “Wilderness” in 1984 — very much to ourselves.  An elegant old lodge, five cabins, twenty-five horses, low-key guides, modern plumbing, electricity from the creek, a library with a piano, and an accomplished chef, complete the scene.  Our maximum of 16 guests schedule their own days, doing just what they want.