Darwin Ranch. . . has been catering to wilderness enthusiasts ever since 1965, when Loring Woodman first began renovating the old log cabins at the Gros Ventre River crossing where the original, now obliterated, pioneer wagon track starts its long descent into Jackson Hole.

We are 22 miles inside the Bridger-Teton National Forest over such a long dirt road that we have this last, totally isolated section of the Gros Ventre River valley — officially designated “Wilderness” in 1984 — very much to ourselves.

Twenty horses, low-key guides, modern plumbing, electricity from the creek, a library with a piano, and an accomplished, imaginative cook, complete the scene.

Our maximum of 14 guests schedule their own day,
doing exactly what they want: